The 2015 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru continues to show very well, unfurling in the glass with a rich bouquet of ripe plums, blackberries, dark chocolate and forest floor. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and powerful, with an ample chassis of fine structuring tannins and a deep core of fruit, but the wine is shutting down and is more inscrutable than it was six months earlier. Readers with bottles in their cellars are sitting on a great example of Clos des Lambrays, one of the best produced since the 1970s, but a decade's patience is advised.

WA 95