Apple jelly, pear preserves and caramel studded with white raisin and candied citrus peels make for an aromatic display of head-turning intensity and a creamy, glycerol-rich palate of similarly remarkable concentration and allure. A vein of fresh apple and grapefruit is tapped to introduce unexpected primary juiciness into the layers of confitured, lightly torrefied and desiccated fruit concentrates, and the extraordinarily long, mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish also affords glimpses of smoky and stony mineral nuances rare in a Riesling this rich. Theres no youthful reticence to this Wehlener! The share of botrytis here was minimal, according to Katharina Prüm. -- David Schildknecht